GPU working (even after accidentally dragging its underside on my bed)? = CHECK!
\nCPU staying below 64*C on load (without needing to underclock)? = CHECK!
\nComputer not shutting itself down\/beeping during POST? = CHECK!
\nGames using all 16GB of my RAM (with no issues)? = CHECK!
\nTolerable FPS(30+) in single-threaded games? = CHECK!
\nFair FPS(50+) in multi-threaded games? = Haven’t tested yet.
\nYoutube videos playing with no studdering? = CHECK!
\nElpis playing without skipping songs by itself? = CHECK!<\/p>\n
As you can see.. yes, everything (so far) is working as it did, before possibly one of the biggest fuckups in my life (of buying that 9590, thinking it was better).
\nClearly, I need to move away from AMD (and Windows 7) in order to be able to upgrade again. Unfortunately, I still have to shift my attention of getting another PSU (over fears the current one could fail for being pretty old). I did discover (as I was preparing to install it) the PSU was made in 2009, which makes it 8 years old.<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, getting a recommendation for this is next to impossible. Why? Since the PSU powers everything in a computer, and since not everyone has the same hardware, it’s hard to recommend the correct wattage a specific computer requires. All anyone can do is to use a PSU Calculator. Thing is.. Newegg’s calculator and the one on Coolermaster’s website, give different figures. Coolermaster says I need at least a 330W, while Newegg’s says I need at least a 513W. That is a huge gap. As for knowing if I even need<\/u> to replace the thing, I was given a link to this item<\/a>. It looks useful, but when I scrolled down to look at the comments, one says how it only shows voltage and not the load on your computer (how they’ve had several PSUs testing ‘OK’ yet failing). Tried asking Tulsi, but he keeps going AFK on me (and no one else in Discord wants to volunteer). I may have to ask the LinusTechTips forum. I want answers. “Do I need to replace this?” is the main one. . GPU working (even after accidentally dragging its underside on my bed)? = CHECK! CPU staying below 64*C on load (without needing to underclock)? = CHECK! Computer not shutting itself down\/beeping during POST? = CHECK! Games using all 16GB of my … Continue reading
\nThough to simplify things for myself, I think I just might get the same thing I already have now (just not made in 2009). And on top of that, even when I find the correct voltage, I just have to … ‘know’ what are reputable companies, and what are cheap knockoffs (by doing over thousands of reviews)….why am I<\/em> the one doing research here? This is why I try to get others to do it for me. I don’t know this shit!
\nPlus I tried years ago to do my own research. And just like going over video game reviews, you got a 50\/50 split of “I like it” -VS- “I hate it”. Building a computer was hard enough…having to wade through comments (and not lose a few brain cells), is impossible…oh wait. Ooops. I meant the Youtube comments section. My bad.<\/p>\n
\nAlso, the display…WTF IS THIS COMPLICATED SHIT?! All of these numbers make NO sense to me! NONE of them (to me) show me the PSU wattage level. Isn’t that what’s the most important here? And even if I took the PSU out, tested it and tried to match the numbers of the display to what the sticker on the PSU shows, how in the hell do I know if these numbers are “good” or “bad”? Are high numbers good? Are low numbers good? Hell if I know!
\nWhy can’t it just show “Your current Outgoing PSU Wattage is.. (numbers here)”. Simple as that. All I care about is knowing if it’s still producing 650W. And if not, then I should replace it before it falls below what is minimally required for my computer to function. At least, this is how I’m picturing it. There could be a lot<\/strong> more factors than just wattage.<\/p>\n
\nI try to learn this stuff, but this one is way out of my league.<\/p>\n
\nEDIT: I got one more post to make (semi-computer related), and then I’m done making post until I get the Windows 10 OEM (and give my review of the new OS). Still need to get the PSU first, and I wish I knew how long I have ’till it fails (and fries the board). I feel as soon as I get it, I need to switch to it (just to make sure).
\nHopefully I can afford it next month, and then the OEM copy in July.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"